Jeondong Catholic Cathedral

Full transcript

Annyeong, yeoreobun! Yul here. We're in Jeonju, right next to the hanok village, and in front of us stands one of the most beautiful churches in Korea: Jeondong Cathedral. Red brick, grey brick, three bell towers. Gorgeous, right? But this beauty begins with a tragedy.

The year is 1791. In Joseon, honoring your ancestors with rites called jesa was the law of the land. But a young scholar named Yun Ji-chung, a Catholic, held his mother's funeral by Catholic rites, and he and his cousin Kwon Sang-yeon burned the family's ancestral tablets. To the court, that was a shocking crime. Both men were executed right here, outside Jeonju's south gate, Pungnammun. They became the first Catholic martyrs in Korean history.

Exactly one hundred years later, in 1891, a French priest, Father Baudounet, bought the land. Construction started in 1908, designed by Father Poinel, the same priest who designed Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul.

Now here's the twist. At that time, the Japanese authorities were tearing down Jeonju's old city walls. So the priest bought the stones. Some of the cornerstones came from the wall near Pungnammun, and bricks were baked from the wall's earth. The very walls where the martyrs died became their church. The outside was finished in 1914. And in 2014, Pope Francis beatified Yun Ji-chung in Seoul.

Yul's tip! It's an active parish, so during Mass, stay quiet, no flash photos, and dress modestly. Come at golden hour for the best photos.

Next, cross the street into the hanok village where a king's portrait is kept. Kaja!